First African Baptist Church, Savannah, Georgia
Although not well-publicized, I read about this church on Trip Adviser and we were able to take a tour on our way through Savannah.
A 22 year old college student, a member of the church, led the tour with energy and knowledge. He invited us to come back on a Sunday or to one of their monthly baptism services when he said the congregation got lively, happy, and full of laughter. They call their current pastor "Dynamite" because his initials are T.N.T. and his preaching is an explosion!
Church Bought with Money Saved to Buy Their Children's Freedom
The church is the oldest black church in North American, first organized in 1773, several years before America became a nation. The current location is the fifth for the church. They purchased their present property in the 1830's from the white First Baptist Church for $1500. And where did slaves get the money? They got it from small stipends they received for extra work (after their usual 10-12 hour work days), money they had saved to purchase their children's freedom. The First Baptist church ,which profited from this 'freedom money,' still operates in Savannah.
The stained glass windows above the pulpit picture six of the church’s early pastors, and our young guide pointed out that one pastor had an especially fitting name for a follower of Jesus: Emmanuel King Love. E.K. Love was instrumental in founding several African-American colleges to include Savannah State where our guide attends.
Still today many southern Christians defend the display of the Confederate flag as a proud representation of their history, and they claim the war began over "states rights" not slavery. However, their own historical documents refute this. According to the South Carolina Succession papers, signed in the First Baptist Church of Columbia, SC, the Confederacy began over their right to own human beings. Was it a state's right issue? yes. But it was the state's right to continue oppressing African Americans.
The First Baptist Church of Columbia, SC still proudly owns the marble-top table on which the succession papers were drafted, and they don't hide the fact that when Sherman came to Columbia and wanted to destroy the building where the papers were signed, First Baptist directed him to a Methodist Church, which he destroyed. The church legend is that it was an African-American janitor at First Baptist who misled Sherman, but I doubt that very much, especially because the Methodists were known for anti-slavery sentiments.
This information was not part of the church tour, and I sensed no anger or resentment in our young guide's tour presentation. I add these facts because of my own shame at the actions of the white race, especially those who call themselves Christian.
The stained glass windows above the pulpit picture six of the church’s early pastors, and our young guide pointed out that one pastor had an especially fitting name for a follower of Jesus: Emmanuel King Love. E.K. Love was instrumental in founding several African-American colleges to include Savannah State where our guide attends.
Nine Square Quilt Pattern of Underground Railroad
The ceiling of the sanctuary is in a "nine square quilt" design. The nine square quilt was a secret sign for the Underground Railroad--a sign of safety. Often actual quilts were hung on safe locations and the squares of the quilts contained pictures that directed runaway slaves to safe locations.Southern White Church's Shameful History
Side Note: The main reason Southern Baptist Churches are called Southern is because they split with northern Baptists who refused to let slave-owners become missionaries. The Southern Baptists consistently defended slavery and resisted the civil rights movement. It wasn't until 1995 that the Southern Baptist Church officially repented of these things! Still today many southern Christians defend the display of the Confederate flag as a proud representation of their history, and they claim the war began over "states rights" not slavery. However, their own historical documents refute this. According to the South Carolina Succession papers, signed in the First Baptist Church of Columbia, SC, the Confederacy began over their right to own human beings. Was it a state's right issue? yes. But it was the state's right to continue oppressing African Americans.
The First Baptist Church of Columbia, SC still proudly owns the marble-top table on which the succession papers were drafted, and they don't hide the fact that when Sherman came to Columbia and wanted to destroy the building where the papers were signed, First Baptist directed him to a Methodist Church, which he destroyed. The church legend is that it was an African-American janitor at First Baptist who misled Sherman, but I doubt that very much, especially because the Methodists were known for anti-slavery sentiments.
This information was not part of the church tour, and I sensed no anger or resentment in our young guide's tour presentation. I add these facts because of my own shame at the actions of the white race, especially those who call themselves Christian.
Church Built On Slaves "Free Time"
Back to the tour of First African Baptist Church:In the 1850's after literally “slaving” for their owners for 10-12 hours, church members built their present building. The women carried "Savannah gray bricks" uphill a half mile and kept the building site lighted while the men made the building 4 bricks deep.They had the knowledge and skill to create a building which is still standing today.
Pastor Beaten for Teaching About Jesus
I asked how the white community treated the original church, and our guide admittedg that the first pastor was beaten several times for the criminal act of educating slaves (i.e. giving them religious education) until his owner had an official court order enacted that made beating him illegal.
The original stain glass windows running down the sidewalls of the church had an unusual drapery design, and the young guide said there are several stories as to their symbolism. They may represent the temple curtain torn in two by Christ’s death, symbolizing each man's ability to access Christ. Or they may illustrate the saying, “what goes on in our house stays in our house,” symbolizing each man's safety within the walls of the church.
The church can seat 1500 in the upstairs with wrap around balcony and 1000 downstairs, but I would imagine it would be quite a tight squeeze. Upstairs there are curved oak pews, and in the basement primitive pews—the original ones made by the slaves. In the balcony, the oak pews have strange markings on the sides which some have called “cursive Hebrew”—something that may have African origins.
Before blacks were allowed in white churches (1) there were as many as 4500 members at the First African Baptist church which claims the first black Sunday school in the nation and also the first building to be owned by blacks (a previous building to their present location).
Air Holes for Escaping Slaves
But the downstairs was the most interesting history for me. The Georgian pine floor is worn with age and has 36 sets of holes in a pattern that originated in the Congo. The pattern, a cross surrounded by a diamond represents a flash of the spirits at the four directions of the compass. The slaves who built the church simply explained that these holes were part of their African heritage and their white neighbors never knew they were actually air holes for runaway slaves hiding below the floor.
Beneath the basement floor there is another oak floor only four foot high where up to two hundred slaves could stay at one time, although they usually only stayed two or three days on their way to Northern safety. Food was balled up and poked through these tiny holes so the runaways could eat.
The tunnel under the church is as large as the church but narrows considerably as it heads down to the Savannah River where slaves crossed into South Carolina on their way to Northern safety, if they weren’t caught first and returned or killed first.
Savannah's Underground Tunnels to Safety
Savannah’s fourteen tunnels have virtually been lost, becoming storm drains if not blocked completely. After the Civil War, members of the First African Baptist Church sealed up the entrances to their underground tunnel, but the young man leading our tour said he’d once had the opportunity to look at it when they repaired some pipes and had to cut a hole in the floor.
(1) This makes me think of my favorite line in the movie “Sounder” when a black family is out walking and their child asks about a particular church building. “Oh, blacks aren’t allowed in that building, son,” the father says, “But don’t feel bad about it. One time I was talking to the Lord about it, and He said He isn’t allowed in there either.”
For a devotion I wrote about this tour see:
Slavery is a Black and White Issue.
For a devotion I wrote about this tour see:
Slavery is a Black and White Issue.
